Carifesta

Carifesta is the “Caribbean Arts Festival”. It started in Guyana in 1972 and is celebrating its 10th festival by returning again to Guyana. From August 22nd to 31st, Guyana is sharing its culture, literary arts, performing arts, food, and more while welcoming its door to x number of other Caribbean and South American countries to do the same (www.carifesta.net).

There was a mad rush and huge line to get tickets for the opening and closing ceremonies – and apparently tickets and passes for every event. The ticket policy was soon ended when they realized that nobody thought (logically enough) that they would need tickets to go to an exhibition ground, but unfortunately, they also didn’t keep the ticket policy for those places with limited seating which led to plenty of disappointed people.

The schedule for the 10 days was released probably one (max two) days before the opening ceremonies. Nobody could tell me what was going on. It’s very hard to plan your life around an arts festival when you don’t know where things are or even what they are! When the schedule was finally released, it was colour coded (love it!) by category (performing arts, visual arts, poetry, etc) – but it was very hard to follow what days things were happening and where. I personally would have done a daily schedule and then colour coded within that schedule, but then again, that’s just me… It was tricky to decide what to do because events were just given a title and a country – no description as to what a film was about or a performing arts piece, really just a random shot in the dark and cross your fingers that it’s interesting and what you expected!

I missed the opening ceremonies scheduled on Friday, August 22 by choice to host a birthday party for myself and skipped a huge concert (with such international artists as Mr. Vegas) the following day to assist with my recovery and spend quality time with my departing neighbour and darling sister.

On Sunday, Lesa and I headed to Sophia exhibition ground to see the Amerindian village and plans to visit the National Park and their literacy exhibition. My reading of the fabulous schedule missed that the country exhibitions and a craft exhibition was also happening on the grounds! We were greeted at the gate by a guard and a police officer. The guard wanted to check my purse and see my ticket – “I need a ticket” (naively) – allowing me to pass and Lesa was interrogated (more idle curiosity about the white girl) about what country she was from (leaving her slightly concerned that maybe she should have brought her passport). About half of the country exhibitions were open when we went (inspiring me to try and return later in the week) and they all displayed varying levels of effort from posters to handouts to hands-on activities to crafts to story tellers. I left with an armful of tourist magazines that quite a few people asked about later in the day. Priya found us somewhere in the country exhibitions and after a water break, we explored a craft exhibition that had the usual tourist crafts that you have to search through to find something unique and often feel pressured to buy anyway. My favourite two approaches were a woman telling us to buy something from them like a mother scolding a child and a man who envisioned this beautiful necklace upon my open chest (he was quite hilarious and I actually debated going back for the necklace). My favourite booth was of a pirate ship – created in all the glorious details and “floating” in the middle of the booth. The artisan was a potter/ceramics artist so all the little pirates were made of ceramics and they were diving for lost treasure – an assortment of pottery and ceramic beads on the bottom of the ocean (aka the bottom of the booth).

The “Schedule” had said the air show was on Saturday and much to our disappointment, we saw nothing. A quick call from Maria asking us where we were and we found out the air show was indeed on Sunday, meaning we hadn’t missed anything! The taxi driver made a quick detour for us and dropped us as close as he could to the seawall which ended up being several city blocks away from our destination of Celena’s to watch with Maria and her family! Cars were barely able to drive on the street because of parked cars and pedestrians. As soon as we were dropped off, planes started flying close above us – wowing the crowd and testing their smoke. The best was yet to come as the seven planes flew high in the sky, starting their spectacular show in the sky by writing “CARIFESTA X GUYANA” to roaring cheers from the crowd. From our point at Celena’s, we saw people gathered on the sea wall as far as the eye could see! The various tricks and stunts thrilled and shocked the crowd – amazing to see, but also amazing to take part in and stop breathing with the entire city and then collectively cheer at the successful stunt!

On Monday, Priya and I went to a poetry/short story reading at the Umana Yana. I had read the names of the authors present and was excited to see a familiar name, Austin Clarke, a former writer in residence at the University of Guelph! He read a chapter from his latest book. Many Caribbean countries were represented, some authors were better than others – perhaps just better at performing and sharing their pieces. Some pieces were quite powerful - leaving you with goosebumps on your skin, tears in your eyes, make you forget to breathe....

On Tuesday, we went to the International Convention Centre to see Calypso Dream, a documentary on calypso music in Trinidad. I have driven by the Convention Centre and always wanted to go in so I had no idea what to expect from the documentary, but chose it based on potential and the location! When you are driving in Guyana, the centre is one of those buildings that makes you stop and think “which one of these is not like the other?” My understanding is that it was designed, built and donated to Guyana by Japan. It’s huge, blue and shiny with an amazing auditorium built like a ‘pod’ at the back of the building and connected by halls and stairs in the open concept building. Probably the worst description ever, but I have pictures. The front entrance was hosting sculptures from two Guyanese abroad sculptors that were made of wood, brass, metal, and more! Each one was so unique and you could just see the time and craftsmanship in every part of it. The documentary itself left you wanting to dance and well versed in the roots and history of calypso.

On Wednesday, I tried to go see River Down, a Jamaican play at the National Cultural Centre, but had a bit of an adventure as I thought I had lost my keys and wasn’t going anywhere. I eventually found them in obviously the last place I thought to look and arrived late to find a huge crowd, more like a mob, gathered outside the NCC wanting into see the show. I learned that the 8pm showing was full, but due to demand they would be having a 10pm show if I wanted to stick around. The crowd was quite rowdy and there was a team of police officers to keep them semi-calm. Not the kind of situation that a single white female wants to find herself in at night so I called a car and left. I think it’s wonderful though in a sense. So many people wanting that cultural experience that they are rarely given the opportunity to see, especially for free…They want it, yearn for it… I hope Carifesta inspires more local fesitvals , both particpants, oragnizers and attenders…

On Thursday, I went to a poetry reading at Oasis. It was kind of neat because it was an impromptu session of a Trinidad woman who fell in love with the atmosphere at Oasis and some other authors she had met along the way. One of my favourite artists, a Guyanese women with spoken word poetry performed and now I love her work even more! Also a Barbadian with spoken word poetry – I’m going to try and find his CD. It wouldn’t be the same to read their poetry, the passion and rhythm is in the way they speak the words.

On Friday, I went back to the Convention Centre to see the Guyana Women’s Artist Exhibit which had been closed on my first trip. I bought some pottery from Irene Gonsalves and teased her that between the new pieces and other ones that I have purchased, I will have to buy a new carry-on luggage to make sure they get home safely! I had thought I was going to a documentary from Brazil called Terra Estranga so was obviously quite surprised to sit down and watch a semi-documentary/children’s film on Peking Opera from China. Luckily, Wallis saved me from watching the entire film for a visit and cake.

On Saturday, my new neighbour and I went to the Cliff Anderson Sports Hall and the Mandela Gymnasium to see visual art exhibits by country and local artist groups. I thoroughly enjoyed all parts of the exhibit. I was a proud Canadian to see a photograph exhibit essentially capturing various aspects of Canada from RCMP to veterans to ocean to mountains… It was like walking into home and having a little moment. We discussed how values are put on paintings and I have definitely decided that I am not ready to grow up and purchase paintings for my home! Or I will have to take up painting more seriously and decorate my own house. I finished the day with a trip to Oasis for a local band that performed some cover songs – and closed early to allow people to go to the super concert at the stadium featuring Akon – who actually did show up but not until 3am!!

And here I find myself today, posting on my week’s adventures. A little glimpse into Caribbean culture, a little sampling of all the areas presented at Carifesta!