Saying goodbye

Good-bye, Guyana. Thanks for an amazing year, complete with ups and downs, upside downs and backwards... I think I have said all the words that there are to say at this point.

Until we meet again.


“Don't be dismayed at goodbyes, a farewell is necessary before you can meet again and meeting again, after moments or lifetimes, is certain for those who are friends.”

~Richard Bach~

A Perfect Saturday

Yesterday was my perfect Saturday in Guyana.

I slept in a little bit, enjoyed a few cartoons, showered and got dressed at my own pace. I look at the pile of GHIS related material that I could review again and do some more planning, but make the better decision to take the day for myself. I contemplated tidying my little apartment and decided that the dishes could wait for another day...

Around noon, I met Anu at the market (Stabroek, just to clarify). It's my favourite Saturday routine. If I were brave, I'd take the minibus, but as it is, I have the taxi driver drop me off at the front and I consider myself pretty brave to walk alone from the front to the very back of the market. Always a few comments from vendors wanting to know if I'm shopping and of course, men wanting me to know how beautiful I look! When I get to their stall, I love to see Anu and her dad's smiling faces pop up from behind the counter. I admire all her family's gold jewellery, dream of what I would buy if I were a millionaire and pick out my own beautiful gold jewellery set (an investment, but in my price range). It's taken me a few visits to decide what I wanted - everything is so beautifully hand crafted, shiny yellow gold and it's just so hard to pick your favourite!

Yesterday we mixed up the routine a bit and took a journey to Giftland to buy blank CDs - gotta love a little trip on a minibus, I'm always thankful that I survive. We walked back from Giftland to the market area. It's a bustle of activity in "downtown" central. A quick stop at the bank to pick up some cash (as quick as it can be to visit the only Scotiabank in the area in prime shopping time) then we head over to the Lotto place. I love going to Lotto. I'm not sure if Anu's dad's tickets ever really win (I think he's gotten a free ticket here or there since I've started coming), but I love checking the numbers, enjoying the air conditioning, dreaming of winning Guyanese millions and often do a little dance as we wait in the line - I think it amuses the security guard and I just can't help myself when the music is good.

Next stop is Hack's Halaal. The place where Anu introduced me to dhal puri with mango sour and you can find all the tasty treats like pine tarts, cakes, pastries, curries, and roti at a great price! Anu has a list of goodies that she usually picks up and by this time after walking in the sun, we both need a drink - Coke for Anu, water for me :)

I leave the market and usually spend the afternoon at home with a book or a movie on the Hallmark channel, but yesterday I was lucky enough to have a date with Samara, Wallis' daughter. While her son was at Scouts, I looked after Samara to give Wallis some time to work. We made some delicious cakes with our imagination, watered the plants for Ms P and took some time to be pirates and search for buried treasure in the yard. Wallis still needed some time after Lee was done with scouts so the three of us went to Pegasus and enjoyed the new playground!

When I finally got home, I was pretty exhausted from entertaining and keeping an eye on a 4 and 9 year old, but when the call came from my Canadian intern friends, I couldn't resist. I met them at White Castle fish shop for a drink (after an energizing shower and a change of clothes - didn't want to bring the sand from the playground with me!). We were planning our evening when I discovered they hadn't been to Latino’s yet! I can leave Guyana now knowing that they have been to all my favourite places. I introduced them to my favourite, rum and coconut water, and showed them the potential for dancing at Latino's (though strangely the dance floor was dead). I found the energy to somehow beat Cinderella's curfew, but found a space in the first taxi home. A great way to start a Sunday... :)

I appreciate the beauty of this country, enjoy taking new adventures, but there is something about a weekend routine with family and friends that makes you feel more at home.

Sorry for the late posting. I realized that I had written this post, saved it and apparently never posted it!

September Heat

September is hot. Really hot. I thought I was sick or something because of my difficulty to tolerate the heat. I used to walk to work every day, now most days I call a car. I sweat just by standing still. But I should known that the sun and my position close to the equator would explain it all! In Canada, when fall officially starts, summer is ending because the earth is rotating away from the sun – so my position near the equator is getting direct sun before the start of summer in the southern hemisphere. The days are getting shorter again and the sun is setting sooner…

Scientific Explanation:
"The Earth is at the autumnal equinox on or about September 21st. As the Earth revolves around the Sun, it gets positioned such that the Sun is directly over the equator. Basically, the Sun's energy is in balance between the northern and southern hemispheres. " (http://www.crh.noaa.gov/fsd/astro/season.php)

Bottomline: when you're essentially caught between the two hemispheres, there is no balance of the sun's energy...

It's HOT!!

The Cinema

I kid you not. I have been to the cinema in Georgetown. Potentially the only cinema in Guyana... And I survived.

I've actually been four times. I made the mistake of calling my parents the first time - being so excited to have an activity besides eating or drinking out on the town, and I might have mentioned that the cinema is on the "no-go" list for PeaceCorps volunteers, right up there with Stabroek market, but not as serious as Blue Iguana. Not the brightest idea, but I think they felt better after I told them about the excellent service of the guard who watches you from the moment you walk through the doors at 5:45pm through the movie and right until you get into the car at the end of the show!

The first film I went to see was Tyler Perry’s Meet the Browns. Neither Priya and I really knew what the film was about, but it was entertaining in that dramatic family comedy way with a little bit of a love story. The cost is $300 per show and though there is no popcorn, the lovely ticket lady does have delicious egg balls with mango sour for sale. The theatre has three levels and we watched the show from the balcony. The theatre is completely dark though it’s probably best that the lights aren’t on. The creaks and squeaks made me a little nervous and I made sure that I knew where all my exits were in case of fire or some other unforeseen circumstance. The only problem with the evening was the attack of the mosquitoes happening on my legs as I watched that I didn’t notice until the end – probably the most bites since I arrived last year and incredibly itchy!

The second film we saw was What Happens in Vegas with some new Canadian friends. I felt much more confident though a couple of big trucks drove by and I kind of felt the building shake which makes one a little tense, but I protected the first timers. Highlight of course was the blackout in an already scary theatre which wasn't as bad as it could have been because I had good company. And Skittles to calm me.

The third film was Hancock. Will Smith. Big screen. Need I say more? You'd brave the theatre too. I'd even seen it twice before...

And the final film that I survived was The Happening by M. Night Shyamalan. I don't know how Priya convinced me to go. I watch his movies (if I watch them at all!) in the day time, with the lights on, with either my mom or a male friend to hold me. Thankfully it wasn't as dark as some of his movies, but obviously had the same scary and thought-provoking features.

I don't know if I'll get to see another film before I leave, but without a doubt, I have enjoyed my Georgetown cinematic experiences.

Editorial Letter

I enjoyed reading this letter to the editor in the papers this morning - kind of a perfect day for me to read the paper as I tend to avoid them because of the violent stories and images used. It was written by the Honourable Minister of Health Dr. Leslie Ramsammy.

Can you please spare me a moment to be a proud Guyanese?

I have always been proud to be Guyanese. I have always had an abiding optimism in the future of my country. I believe in the goodness of my country and my sisters and brothers. Even in bad times, there are so many positive things that I see and so many of my sisters and brothers who make me proud. I am grateful that Guyana, with all its problems and with so many constraints, global and local, continues to demonstrate resiliency and maintain a promise of greatness. Over the last several weeks and over the past few years, I have had many reasons to feel proud. I feel compelled to bare my soul today so that my friends, my sisters and brothers see my pride in my country.

So what exactly compelled me to speak out at this time? My tolerance and patience were exhausted this past week. After a long period of trying to be very tolerant and remembering we live in a free and democratic country in which we ensure space for all kinds of views and opinions, my tolerance finally was exhausted.

There are commentators and “experts” who have all the answers. There are those who believe that as long as you serve in this Government you have no integrity and no contribution to make. Even these persons have not exhausted my patience! But I must confess that those who constantly and relentlessly seem to want to convince us that there is nothing good about Guyana, that Guyana is cursed, that other than themselves, there is no good person in Guyana, that Guyana is not going anywhere, have finally drove me over the edge and have moved me to respond. My short response first is enough is enough, stop it!

I would be dishonest if I were to do the same in an opposite way, that is, in the same forceful way to equally try to convince everyone that only good things happen in Guyana and that only good people live in Guyana, that there is no corruption anywhere in our country. There are many things and many people who should make us mad. Some things that are done in the name of the government should make us mad as hell! Corruption occurs in government and in the private sector, in NGOs. There are many bad things which happen in Guyana and which should make us bow our heads in shame. For sure we have our share of bad people.

There is no shame or hurt, or anything wrong, in persons dedicating their lives to expose these wrong doings and incompetent actions in our society. Indeed, for those who want to dedicate their lives in highlighting these wrong things, the things that bring shame to our country and our people, it is truly a noble choice. This should not exhaust our tolerance and, quite to the contrary, this should generate feelings of gratitude. But when this is done with an attitude and with a tone that nothing good happens in Guyana, it is unbalanced and unfair and it is ugly. It is dishonest and it exposes a wicked agenda.

I do not want to make an exhaustive list, and I do not want to go too far back. I want you to see just a few reasons why I am unapologetically a proud Guyanese. I am no “yes” person. I am not beholden to anyone.

When many here and around the Caribbean thought we were a risk to host world cup cricket, Guyana hosted a quality leg of the world cup series. I felt pride in the way Guyanese behaved, the way Guyanese came out and supported world cup cricket and in the way we were able to bring Guyana to a state of readiness. Many were surprised. I was not. Together with the majority of Guyanese, we showed everyone we were a capable people, bringing off a world cup cricket series with competence and with much zest. We flew the Golden Arrow Head in a way that said to the world “WE ARE GUYANESE, PROUD GUYANESE!”

Similarly, we have just concluded the hosting of CARIFESTA. Really, which one of us cannot be proud of the way Guyana responded in being the most hospitable of hosts? This was the largest ever CARIFESTA. This was a quality CARIFESTA. If CARIFESTA 1 set a standard for CARICOM countries to emulate, CARIFESTA 10 has re-calibrated the standards for which CARICOM countries must strive. There was celebration, there was joy. But there was also a robust dignity that oozed from Guyanese of all walks of life. I was glistening with pride.

Then there is Shivnarine Chanderpal. Here is an unassuming, quiet, humble Guyanese. But he is the #1 batsman in the world. He is now the cricketer of the year! Can you imagine that anyone of us would not be lighted up with pride! And lest I be accused of gender bias, we should not forget the pride with which Nicolete Fernandes, Aliana Pompey and Marianne Burnett represent Guyana and the pride they allow us to feel as Guyanese.

I remember how many of us stood with tears in our eyes and filed with patriotic pride when the International Tribunal on the Laws of the Seas ruled in Guyana’s favor in our sea borders dispute with Suriname earlier in the year. In this case, Guyanese could not help feeling pride for the boldness the government demonstrated in taking the dispute to the Tribunal. In particular, no one could have denied that the courage and leadership of President Bharrat Jagdeo were pivotal factors in this genuine Guyanese success story.

And I must relate the immense pride I felt when I participated in the Economic Partnership Agreement Consultation that took place last week at the International Convention Center. I saw Guyanese of all walks of life, Guyanese of different political parties, from the private sector and trades unions, from faith-based organizations, from NGOs, and Guyanese with a history of political and social differences, Guyanese with an acrimonious past, come together to raise their voices against the powerful European Union. And I was filled with pride to see our President being the Guyanese leader, a leader for all of our people.

President Bharrat Jagdeo demonstrated a keen understanding of the EPA, and explained with great clarity, with passion, with quiet confidence why the EPA is not a beneficial tool for Guyana, why the EPA is nothing more than a re-colonization instrument for the Europeans. There were great admiration for the young President, even by persons who have major differences with him and with whom he has had many unpleasant confrontations. It’s not the first time, but this was a moment when Guyanese felt genuine pride for our President. I know of no one in Guyana and in the Caribbean who could more clearly articulate the downside of the EPA than President Bharrat Jagdeo. My pride for Bharrat Jagdeo, our President, was not merely as a Minister in his Cabinet. It was as a simple Guyanese.

Every day I pass Guyanese craftsmen and women weaving their magic and bringing such enormous pride to our people. Our farmers are the best in the world. We produce the best sugar in the world. We might be a poor country, but more than 95 % of our children are protected against some of the world’s most devastating diseases. We have been able to reduce maternal and infant mortality by half in the last 15 years. It is ordinary nurses and simple health care providers in our towns and villages, in our remote communities, who are the heroes and heroines. I am eternally grateful and they make me so proud to be a Guyanese.

Lest I fall for the temptation of preparing a laundry list of pride factors, let me stop for the moment. I believe I have made my point for now. While there might be some bad things and while there may be some bad people in our country, there are many positive, uplifting things to make us proud to be Guyanese.

It’s simply reckless to deny there are things which make me stand with my head held high and beaming with pride. It’s wicked to portray a picture of total degradation, of hopelessness, of shame, of a country devoid of anything good. When we cannot bring ourselves, even for a moment to recognize the many things that dignify our nation, it must mean we have some mischievous, unholy agenda.

Please give me a break and allow me some time to savor my good fortune of being a Guyanese. I am intelligent enough to see wrong things and I am committed to want to change these wrongs. I see bad things, unacceptable things and I am appalled, even sometimes from within the government structure. These things disappoint me and make me reel with anger.

But I will rather die than not to acknowledge the good, the dignified, proud things that we accomplish, as individuals and as a Guyanese nation every day! So to the critics, can you spare me a moment to be a proud Guyanese?
Dr. LESLIE RAMSAMMY

http://www.guyanachronicle.com/letters.html#Anchor-26242

Santa Mission

I’ve always wanted to visit Santa Mission and as my time is coming to an end, I was feeling the pressure. I had decided that I was going to go yesterday and apparently the organizers of Amerindian Heritage Month had decided that Santa Mission was going to be their Amerindian Village for the celebrations and yesterday was going to be the big celebration!!

Luckily, I had a PeaceCorps friend on the inside who instructed me how to get there and with a little word of mouth, I ended up traveling with seven other people. The adventure started at my house at 7am where we took a car to the bus park in front of Stabroek and were violently hustled from one bus to another. Hustling is how mini bus conductors get passengers, but this was my first experience leading people on to a mini bus (and not being the one led) – and being physically hustled where one man “took me under his wing” and I felt a little uncomfortable. The man in our group took charge and we got on a mini bus that was ready to depart. The $300 bus ride dropped us off on the road outside the dock where we were greeted with large boats and tons of people getting in. The flat rate of $2000 round trip was standard for the boat and they stuffed us into a big boat which had no regard for boat safety rules (atleast by Canadian standards) where some of our group had to sit on the bottom or on gas cans.

We crossed Kamuni River (which I think is a tributary of the Demerara River) before entering the Pokerero Creek. By the end of the hour and a half boat ride, we had taken so many twists and turns that I didn’t know where we were. Santa Mission is located up the hill from a white sandy beach. The welcoming committee was getting ready to greet the president (though it was the prime minister who came) and we found our PeaceCorps friends. The village had an entire program prepared of local songs, dances and an acrostic poem by the children. The village tashao gave an address, as well as other tashaos representing their villages. The Minister of Amerindian Affairs and Prime Minister finished the first part of the day and every one was invited to watch the official opening of the new school. Food stalls had various types of pepperpot prepared and local drinks like piwari (from cassava) in addition to the usual beer, water and juice were for sale.

My favourite part of the day was relaxing under the shade of a large mango tree and not having any sounds of the city to worry about. I purchased some lovely baskets in the craft benab. The most adventure for the day was arguing with the boat drivers about whether we should have to pay for our “round” trip upfront or just pay for one way at a time – quite the experience! They weren’t going to let us off the boat. We made it safely there and back, minimal sunburn, lots of beautiful pictures and completely exhausted by the fresh air.

This Country

"At the point where the Caribbean meets South America on its North Atlantic seaboard lies an almost unknown, but incredibly wonderful land of unspoilt beauty, where the virgin rainforest leads to the Amazon Basin. Where the jungle is still unexplored, rivers uncharted and mountains yet to be climbed." (Unknown, www.guyana.org)

I love this country. Sometimes I have to stop and remind myself, but then I forget why I doubted. I love this country. From the mighty Kaieteur to the rolling green savannahs… From the refreshing ocean breeze to the red dirt roads… From the sweet pineapple to the fresh curry and roti… From the cherry juice to the rum and coconut water… I love this country.

But when people ask me what I like most about Guyana, I answer first the “wonderful people” followed of course by the fruit, food and natural beauty. It’s the answer they want to hear, but it’s also the truth.

When I ask myself on those horribly frustrating and stressful days “why the hell am I still here?” I need only to have a phone call from a friend, a kind word from a co-worker, a smile from a stranger at the clinic, a random story from a taxi driver, a chat with my favourite server at Oasis or Windies, a small child wave hello and want to hold my hand, to remember why I’m still here.

When on those rollercoaster days I feel like I am wasting my time and energy in a country where they seem content to do the minimum, I need only to open my eyes and see those individuals trying to run a clinic as best they can with limited resources and challenges they can’t control, watch a person manage too many program because they’re understaffed, talk to a taxi driver who works until the wee hours of the morning and wakes to wash his car before work the next day, to realize I’m not alone in wanting to do my best for this country and my life here.

When I feel lost and overwhelmed, I know just where to find a hug or calming atmosphere, I know who can make me feel better just with his presence, I know where to get a good laugh, where to find a shoulder to cry on and an ear to listen, and if all else fails, I know who serves the best chocolate cake or strongest rum drink.

I’ve found my home away from home, an Oasis, new friends, adopted family, and love… I didn’t expect it, I wasn’t looking for it, but it found me. I love this country.

Land of Many Waters

I found this piece on a website. I am not sure of its author and I feel that it was not created by the website owner because I have seen the first paragraph on other websites, but I thought I'd share the picture it draws....
(http://www.wilderness-explorers.com/highligh.htm)

I lie at a point where the Caribbean meets South America on its North Atlantic seaboard, an almost unknown, but incredibly wonderful land of unspoilt beauty. Where the virgin rainforest leads to the Amazon Basin. Where the Jungle is still unexplored, rivers uncharted and mountains yet to be climbed. I am called Guyana: Land of Many Waters.

Here the Jaguar still roams my forest, and in my rivers - the Giant River Otter, the Black Caiman and the Arapaima, the largest fresh water fish in the world still swim. I am refuge to the Harpy Eagle and the Hoatzin. I offer 90 miles of Shell Beach to the Oliver Ridley, Leatherback, Green and Hawksbill turtles to nest so that their species may survive. My birdlife is spectacular, there are over 800 species which include the protected Scarlet Macaw, the Red-billed and Toco Toucans and the magnificent Guianan Cock-of-the-rock.

To discover my beauty, travel with me to my famous waterfalls - the majestic and breathtaking Kaieteur, five times the height of Niagra. In honour of its majesty I have placed a rainbow to arch eternally over the mist-covered boulders of the gorge. Here, mystical folklore tell legendary tales of the old chief Kai sacrificing himself over the falls to save his tribe.

Come further with me across the tree tops, over cloud-covered mountains and onto rolling savannah where Orinduik Falls cascades down gigantic steps of Jasper along the Brazilian border.

Come to this land travelled by Evelyn Waugh, David Attenborough, Gerald Durrell, Michael Swan, where the Macusi and Wapishana tribes traded curare poison and arrow canes for flint with the Wai Wai. Where Sir Walter Raleigh came in search of El Dorado and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle was inspired to write his classic "The Lost World".

Come, to where I am rolling savannah, sliced by creeks, broken by hills rising suddenly from the plain, my skyline etched by the mythic mountain of Shiriri. Cattle country, horse country... manes and tails streaming as they surge across the flatlands. Where tall termite cities rise from the grass to be dwarfed by the blue Kanukus. Far horizons of sun scorched plains, broken by shrub, bush, swamp and palm, a scattering of ranches and Amerindian villages. Vacqueros riding barefoot in the stirrup, whistling lassos through the hot air and showing off at rodeo.

Come to me, I am a timeless paradise. The heartbeat of the forest can be felt in me as you explore my many faces. I am the adventure of a lifetime, within me there is a diversity of wildlife, an immense variety of landscapes, an unspoilt wonder. Feel the incredible harmony of nature whisper across your heart. Come, I am an experience you will never forget. I am Guyana.

Motorcycle Ride?

I went to White Castle Fish Shop for some beverages and the best fish and plantain chips in the world with my friend Alfred last night. We made a pact to go at least once a week in my final weeks. I can never remember what kind of fish I am eating, but I love the deep fried goodness and tasty plantain chips! Complimented by a Smirnoff Ice and I'm a happy girl :)

Food was done, drinks were finished, feeling that it was about that time of day to go home and relax... and I also had to write a ToR for the next morning so I thought I should stop with the beverages and start it at a fairly reasonable time... I was debating which taxi company to call when Alfred was like, why don't I take you home? On his motorcycle. In Guyana. Hmm... I don't know why I didn't just say no. I've never said yes before... But I thought about it. And the more I thought about it, the more I thought, why not? We negotiated speeds. And he assured me I would be safe. He even had a helmet for me! Little bit of a rocky start when he teased me with the engine not starting well (played with the choke) and I confess, the bike did rattle a bit when we got started - but I don't think I held on too tight (he could talk so he must have been able to breathe) and we were off! We took a nice leisurely root home, I think he avoided some traffic for me and it was nice to see Georgetown from a different point of view entirely. Barely any vehicles on the road and Alfred was a very good driver (probably best because I don't know if I am covered under my travel health insurance for motorcycle crashes). I apparently wanted to steer, but I guess the driver is responsible for that, not the passenger!

He dropped me safe at home and my new neighbour's friend called me the "hot chick on the motorcycle" - hmm... maybe I should get my own?

A Random Morning at the Chest Clinic

I was welcomed at the door by a patient I had seen last week and wanted to see the doctor even though it wasn't his clinic date. It made me think of a new proposal that they start to reinforce that a patient see the same doctor every time, instead of the doctor that is available - it makes the doctor more invested in the outcome of his/her patient and it reassures the patient that they are seeing a doctor who knows them and cares about their treatment. No clinic card and number, so a quick search in the GHIS and I had all the information I needed. Oh how I love that system :)

I sat with Dr Abiot and helped him enter patient information into the GHIS. I'm not supposed to - it's against the rules (that I created), but I missed working in the clinic, and it's the one thing that I know is always appreciated. I enjoy working with him, seeing familiar patients progressing in their treatment and learning new things. I can read an x-ray now (unless it's tricky or not so clear), know the routine for TB diagnosis and treatment, and am familiar with what to prescribe for an itch, a cough or a pain... Saw my first case of TB of the spine today, who knew? I was thinking it would be interesting to pull the files on the patients that I first saw when I arrived at the clinic in February - we started at the clinic together and with a six month treatment schedule, all of them should be cured of TB by now!

I played phone tag with Roland (HSDU) all morning trying to coordinate our long overdue meeting... 9 am... (somebody slept late because of flu meds and I wasn't going out in the pouring rain) 10am... (dry now, but another meeting came up - and I missed the email suggesting 11am because I was in the clinic) 11am... Ah yes, finally 11am. I dropped off essentially the final copies (well, final copies to be reviewed by the two of us) of the deliverables for my contract - seven module development guides - and a terms of reference to hire somebody to do "my" Chest Clinic job at another facility.

After my meeting at HSDU, I sat on balcony of clinic listening to discussion of the day's news: Roger Khan (I don't know the whole story, but I think there is drug trafficking involved, he is a businessman with lots of influential and interesting connections, currently being held in the States and the latest in the saga - his lawyer has been charged with attempting to "eliminate" the prosecution's star witness)... Fine man's gang is claimed to have committed over 47 murders based on weapons found at the site of their takedown - not actually sure whether this is based on forensic evidence and definitely some passionate balcony sitters on the subject of whether they can be blamed for all or if coverups are involved... complaints about the doctor's disappearance and needing to get children to school, food to eat for lunch...

Impromptu discussion on my love life in the triage room with a nurse - thinking that I should find a Guyanese man to marry (probably related to the same plan to keep me in Guyana). She essentially told me that I should find a black man because he would be more likely to treat me like a queen. In a somewhat paraphrased quote and minus the Creolese (which I can't speak and definitely won't attempt to type), "I've seen what you to do to the men in this clinic. They sit and wait and watch you from behind when you walk, and like to watch your front too. They like your shape, your size, your height, your skin, your smile... They'd do anything to have you. They'd kill to have you." A little scary, a little flattering, a little bit of uncomfortable subject so we switched to a reflection of my time in Guyana...

It was interesting thinking back to what I expected when I first came to work in the clinic - computer literacy, negative attitudes towards the system, current state of the system... I like to think that I've accomplished something. Computer literacy has definitely gone up. The GHIS is no longer "your" system, it's THE or OUR system (I love it!) The computer hardware leaves a lot to be asked for and there is still some relunctancy by certain staff to use the system, but overall, I can see the change in the users and the potential for the system to work, and work well. I have shown them the way, given them the tools they need and I have confidence in them that if they want it, they can do! Now just to get over those computer issues, office tensions and management problems... sigh*

Time for lunch now, I guess, but I'm not really hungry. A trip to Oasis for air conditioning, wireless internet, good music... and cherry juice, chocolate icecream and a brownie... Quite a day...

One Month?

It's hard to believe. The countdown is on... The final days have arrived...

I'm not sure if you start a month countdown from one day to another day, say September 8th to October 8th or whether it should be counted on a four week interva, but essentially, it's about that time of year...

It's hard to describe the mixed feelings that I have about leaving Guyana and about going home. I can't believe I've been here a year and at the same time, I can't believe it's only been a year...

Random

This is kind of a bizarre post - from one extreme to the other... kind of a random assortment of happenings in the past twenty four hours.

Last night I went to the National Stadium in Providence to see Morgan Heritage (Jamaican reggae group), Natural Black (Guyanese reggae man) and a collection of local artists (that I never actually got to see because we arrived late!) The show started at 8pm which means it doesn't really start until at least 9-10pm so we left Georgetown around 9:30ish. A new friend drove us down to the stadium, a twenty minute ride that took atleast 45 minutes because of traffic. No offense, but Guyanese don't know how to drive in traffic. They don't have traffic so no time to practice except for at events like this one. The show must have actually started on time because by the time we got there, Natural Black was on stage. There was an assortment of people in the stadium stands, but the real party was on the field of the stadium. We tried to work our way to the front and in a group of three, I was the middle person - when the last person fell behind, I waited for her to get caught up, but the leader did not. Another one of those times when I am very conscious of the colour of my skin as I find myself near the stage at a reggae concert. Trying to look for your driver (a black woman with dreadlocks) at a reggae concert also becomes a challenge.

We wandered out of the crowded part of the field to find drinks. My friend was a bit tired so we thought we'd sit for a bit and then go back onto the field. While we were standing waiting to get our drinks, my friend reached for her purse as we both thought a little boy had been trying to get into it. We got our drinks and then realized that he hadn't been trying to get in - he had gotten into her purse and taken her wallet with money, national ID and an assortment of other cards. The evening didn't get any better when she went to report the theft to the police (thinking the boy would take the money and ditch the wallet - of more value to her because of the cards) who told her that they hadn't brought their log book with them so she would have to walk to the nearest police station. What!? Great idea to send a young woman walking out on the street alone... Needless to say it put a bit of a damper on our evening. I enjoyed the performance, but was obviously upset by what had happened - what was most upsetting was that it was a child. And you know he didn't get there alone and you have to wonder what kind of situation he is in and where he will go from pick-pocketing...

At the end of our show, we found our driver. (I had jokingly said that if anyone gets lost, we'll meet at the "tree" - which was barely a stick in the ground in front of the stadium, but a nice attempt at improving the scenery - and it worked! She met us there, exhausted and with a sore throat from being front row). The parking lot was chaos. It took us an hour and a half to just get out of the parking lot - again with the not knowing how to drive in traffic jams and not understanding traffic flow, but definitely knowing how to pause traffic. We actually had to go the opposite direction to turn around and head back to the city. I must be getting old because I got home at 4:30am and proceeded to sleep half the day away.

I now find myself at Oasis, enjoying the air conditioning goodness and reading the paper to see that the funeral of 'Fineman' took place today. Half way through Carifesta, the police in Guyana were successful for their hunt for 'Fineman' and his gang - those believed to be responsible for the shootings earlier this year in Lusignan and Bartica as well as various other shootings and the assasination of a Minister a few years ago - shooting him and his "second-in-command", called Skinny (I think). I chose not to read the paper during this time especially (not that I usually follow the news) and heard of pictures of the dead men in the newspaper. I did catch a news clip showing two bodies with feet hanging out on the back of a flat bed truck under the benches with police officers sitting on the benches, weapons ready. I feel the country probably breathed a sigh of relief that those responsible were caught, though it is a different tactic than I am used to at home by police.

Regardless of anyone's actions, a mother has still lost her son and is burying him today. Her quote to the media was something along the lines that "now that my son is dead, all the crime in Guyana will stop" (paraphrased). The media seemed to say it as a statement, but I suspect sarcasm. There is still crime in this country - drugs, violence and corruption... She knows this and hopefully the police and defence force continue to work hard to improve the situation. Hopefully someone will start to take better care of the children who are started out on the wrong track...

Carifesta

Carifesta is the “Caribbean Arts Festival”. It started in Guyana in 1972 and is celebrating its 10th festival by returning again to Guyana. From August 22nd to 31st, Guyana is sharing its culture, literary arts, performing arts, food, and more while welcoming its door to x number of other Caribbean and South American countries to do the same (www.carifesta.net).

There was a mad rush and huge line to get tickets for the opening and closing ceremonies – and apparently tickets and passes for every event. The ticket policy was soon ended when they realized that nobody thought (logically enough) that they would need tickets to go to an exhibition ground, but unfortunately, they also didn’t keep the ticket policy for those places with limited seating which led to plenty of disappointed people.

The schedule for the 10 days was released probably one (max two) days before the opening ceremonies. Nobody could tell me what was going on. It’s very hard to plan your life around an arts festival when you don’t know where things are or even what they are! When the schedule was finally released, it was colour coded (love it!) by category (performing arts, visual arts, poetry, etc) – but it was very hard to follow what days things were happening and where. I personally would have done a daily schedule and then colour coded within that schedule, but then again, that’s just me… It was tricky to decide what to do because events were just given a title and a country – no description as to what a film was about or a performing arts piece, really just a random shot in the dark and cross your fingers that it’s interesting and what you expected!

I missed the opening ceremonies scheduled on Friday, August 22 by choice to host a birthday party for myself and skipped a huge concert (with such international artists as Mr. Vegas) the following day to assist with my recovery and spend quality time with my departing neighbour and darling sister.

On Sunday, Lesa and I headed to Sophia exhibition ground to see the Amerindian village and plans to visit the National Park and their literacy exhibition. My reading of the fabulous schedule missed that the country exhibitions and a craft exhibition was also happening on the grounds! We were greeted at the gate by a guard and a police officer. The guard wanted to check my purse and see my ticket – “I need a ticket” (naively) – allowing me to pass and Lesa was interrogated (more idle curiosity about the white girl) about what country she was from (leaving her slightly concerned that maybe she should have brought her passport). About half of the country exhibitions were open when we went (inspiring me to try and return later in the week) and they all displayed varying levels of effort from posters to handouts to hands-on activities to crafts to story tellers. I left with an armful of tourist magazines that quite a few people asked about later in the day. Priya found us somewhere in the country exhibitions and after a water break, we explored a craft exhibition that had the usual tourist crafts that you have to search through to find something unique and often feel pressured to buy anyway. My favourite two approaches were a woman telling us to buy something from them like a mother scolding a child and a man who envisioned this beautiful necklace upon my open chest (he was quite hilarious and I actually debated going back for the necklace). My favourite booth was of a pirate ship – created in all the glorious details and “floating” in the middle of the booth. The artisan was a potter/ceramics artist so all the little pirates were made of ceramics and they were diving for lost treasure – an assortment of pottery and ceramic beads on the bottom of the ocean (aka the bottom of the booth).

The “Schedule” had said the air show was on Saturday and much to our disappointment, we saw nothing. A quick call from Maria asking us where we were and we found out the air show was indeed on Sunday, meaning we hadn’t missed anything! The taxi driver made a quick detour for us and dropped us as close as he could to the seawall which ended up being several city blocks away from our destination of Celena’s to watch with Maria and her family! Cars were barely able to drive on the street because of parked cars and pedestrians. As soon as we were dropped off, planes started flying close above us – wowing the crowd and testing their smoke. The best was yet to come as the seven planes flew high in the sky, starting their spectacular show in the sky by writing “CARIFESTA X GUYANA” to roaring cheers from the crowd. From our point at Celena’s, we saw people gathered on the sea wall as far as the eye could see! The various tricks and stunts thrilled and shocked the crowd – amazing to see, but also amazing to take part in and stop breathing with the entire city and then collectively cheer at the successful stunt!

On Monday, Priya and I went to a poetry/short story reading at the Umana Yana. I had read the names of the authors present and was excited to see a familiar name, Austin Clarke, a former writer in residence at the University of Guelph! He read a chapter from his latest book. Many Caribbean countries were represented, some authors were better than others – perhaps just better at performing and sharing their pieces. Some pieces were quite powerful - leaving you with goosebumps on your skin, tears in your eyes, make you forget to breathe....

On Tuesday, we went to the International Convention Centre to see Calypso Dream, a documentary on calypso music in Trinidad. I have driven by the Convention Centre and always wanted to go in so I had no idea what to expect from the documentary, but chose it based on potential and the location! When you are driving in Guyana, the centre is one of those buildings that makes you stop and think “which one of these is not like the other?” My understanding is that it was designed, built and donated to Guyana by Japan. It’s huge, blue and shiny with an amazing auditorium built like a ‘pod’ at the back of the building and connected by halls and stairs in the open concept building. Probably the worst description ever, but I have pictures. The front entrance was hosting sculptures from two Guyanese abroad sculptors that were made of wood, brass, metal, and more! Each one was so unique and you could just see the time and craftsmanship in every part of it. The documentary itself left you wanting to dance and well versed in the roots and history of calypso.

On Wednesday, I tried to go see River Down, a Jamaican play at the National Cultural Centre, but had a bit of an adventure as I thought I had lost my keys and wasn’t going anywhere. I eventually found them in obviously the last place I thought to look and arrived late to find a huge crowd, more like a mob, gathered outside the NCC wanting into see the show. I learned that the 8pm showing was full, but due to demand they would be having a 10pm show if I wanted to stick around. The crowd was quite rowdy and there was a team of police officers to keep them semi-calm. Not the kind of situation that a single white female wants to find herself in at night so I called a car and left. I think it’s wonderful though in a sense. So many people wanting that cultural experience that they are rarely given the opportunity to see, especially for free…They want it, yearn for it… I hope Carifesta inspires more local fesitvals , both particpants, oragnizers and attenders…

On Thursday, I went to a poetry reading at Oasis. It was kind of neat because it was an impromptu session of a Trinidad woman who fell in love with the atmosphere at Oasis and some other authors she had met along the way. One of my favourite artists, a Guyanese women with spoken word poetry performed and now I love her work even more! Also a Barbadian with spoken word poetry – I’m going to try and find his CD. It wouldn’t be the same to read their poetry, the passion and rhythm is in the way they speak the words.

On Friday, I went back to the Convention Centre to see the Guyana Women’s Artist Exhibit which had been closed on my first trip. I bought some pottery from Irene Gonsalves and teased her that between the new pieces and other ones that I have purchased, I will have to buy a new carry-on luggage to make sure they get home safely! I had thought I was going to a documentary from Brazil called Terra Estranga so was obviously quite surprised to sit down and watch a semi-documentary/children’s film on Peking Opera from China. Luckily, Wallis saved me from watching the entire film for a visit and cake.

On Saturday, my new neighbour and I went to the Cliff Anderson Sports Hall and the Mandela Gymnasium to see visual art exhibits by country and local artist groups. I thoroughly enjoyed all parts of the exhibit. I was a proud Canadian to see a photograph exhibit essentially capturing various aspects of Canada from RCMP to veterans to ocean to mountains… It was like walking into home and having a little moment. We discussed how values are put on paintings and I have definitely decided that I am not ready to grow up and purchase paintings for my home! Or I will have to take up painting more seriously and decorate my own house. I finished the day with a trip to Oasis for a local band that performed some cover songs – and closed early to allow people to go to the super concert at the stadium featuring Akon – who actually did show up but not until 3am!!

And here I find myself today, posting on my week’s adventures. A little glimpse into Caribbean culture, a little sampling of all the areas presented at Carifesta!