Easter weekend in Guyana this year was quite an event - because of the calendar and the moon and whatever else determines a holiday, the Christian Easter weekend was on the same weekend as the Hindu holiday Phagwah or Holi and the Muslim holiday Mawlid al-Nabi.
In Canada, Easter weekend meant a four day weekend in grade school and a three day weekend in university - with the four day weekend recognizing Good Friday and Easter Monday as holidays. The Mawlid al-Nabi fell on the Thursday and Phagwah fell on the Saturday - meaning a five day long Easter weekend for me!!
Mawlid al-Nabi celebrates the birthday of Muhammed, the founder of Islam. It is fixed as the 12th day of the month of Rabi I in the Islamic calendar. Mawlid means birthday of a holy figure and al-Nabi means prophet. The day is commemorated with recollections of Muhammad's life and significance.
Phagwah or Holi is also called the Festival of Colours and it is a popular Hindu spring festival. On the first day, burning of the demoness Holika in a huge bonfire at night. On the second day, people spend the day throwing colored powder and water at each other. The spring season, during which the weather changes, is believed to cause viral fever and cold. Thus, the playful throwing of the colored powders has a medicinal significance as the colours are traditionally made of medicinal herbs. I did not take part in this holiday as I was out of town, but several people at the Chest Clinic celebrated early by spritzing me with perfume, sparkles and baby powder!!
Because of the long weekend and my need for some time out of the city, I booked some time at the Baganara Island Resort where I spent New Year's with the family. It was my first Easter without family and though I love my adopted families, they need their family time too.
They arranged for a car to pick me up and take me to the boat at Parika that would take me down the Essequibo to Baganara. He was a colourful Brazillian man who I enjoyed chatting with. (Side note: he was unable to come pick me up at the end of my trip, but had the car that did pick me up check in with him and we chatted so he knew I was safely on my way home after a lovely weekend!)
I ended up taking about with probably 20 other individuals who were doing a day tour along the Essequibo with some quality time at Baganara. A surprise stop along the way was at Fort Island. On this island are two structures: Fort Zeelandia and the Court of Policy. Time for a history lesson with help from the National Trust of Guyana (http://www.nationaltrust.gov.gy/natmonuments.html).
"During the period of Dutch occupation the Fort and the Court of Policy were part of a large urban settlement that extended along the northeastern section of the island. This was the seat of the Dutch administration in the colony of Essequibo.
Fort Zeelandia was constructed in 1744. It was constructed to protect the interests of the Dutch West India Company from European rivals such as the English and French who frequented the eastern coast of South America in search of the spoils of war. In addition it was meant to serve as a stronghold against internal forces such as rebellious slaves.
This brick fort which replaced a wooden structure was constructed in accordance to a design by the then secretary of the colony of Essequibo Laurens Storm Vans Gravesande (the colony's longest serving Dutch Commandeur 1738-1776) to conserve funds. It is said that the design followed a pattern lozenge-shaped forts which were common in West Africa during that period. Within the compound of the Fort are the Armory used for the storage of ammunition and several canons reminiscent of the belligerent history of the site.
The Court of Policy served multiple functions. It was a store and at the same time a church, court, seat of government and a sales office. Inside the Court of Policy are the tombs of three Dutch Officials. It is the oldest non-military structure in Guyana. To this day church services are held there."
I have some beautiful pictures of the Fort and one of me looking like quite the tourist! It was here on the island that I met some friends who would also be overnighting at Baganara. Mireille and I spent quite a bit of time together. She is originally from Rwanda and has moved here with her husband and two beautiful little girls. Also with her was two brother-in-laws and another couple with their fat happy little baby. Her English is quite good, but her daughters (3 and 6) speaking French and their native language of Kinya-rwanda. With my poor French and intense sign language, we found our own way to communicate!The bartender remembered me from New Year's so it was nice to chat with him and get him all caught up on the family at home. I was also able to meet his wife and two little girls who came for a day trip and somehow on my bumpy boat ride back up the Essequibo were able to sleep soundly! The food as always was delicious and thankfully this time because the resort was booked full most nights was buffet so I was able to only take on my plate what I would be able to eat!!
I spent a lot of time with Mireille and her family. It was nice to make new friends and learn from each other. We had some adventures with the littlest girl attempting to swim head first during a walk along the beach, some quality time in the hammock with an armful of children and attempts at playing cricket! I also had some quiet quality time in the hammock, enjoying the sound of rain, the waves of the river and the hammock swaying in the breeze.
I missed the boat to Bartica to see the Bartica Regatta which is a feature of Easter Weekend in Guyana. It consists of a growing variety of entertaining holiday activities including water sports (featuring mostly speed boats), cricket, boxing, soccer talent shows, a street parade, and a Miss Bartica Regatta Pageant. The Regatta attracts people from all parts of Guyana and even from other countries. I was semi-attracted to the idea of seeing the boats and the festivities, but it turns out I was a bit more attracted to the hammock and I missed the boat to Bartica! I had the island to myself for a couple of hours though which was lovely.
So far so good and no hookworm... I couldn't resist walking in the sand. And this time I know what to look for and which drugs to take!!
On Easter Monday, I went with Maria and her family to the University of Guyana fields to fly kites. On Sunday and Monday, wherever you traveled you could see people flying kites, from their yards, along the sea wall and in big fields like at UG and the National Park. It was a little adventure complete with full picnic baskets, new kites and all sorts of family members! I am now a trained kite flyer and helped her two oldest children keep the newest kite nicknamed Sharkie (obviously because it's a kite shaped like a shark) up in the air. My understanding is that kite flying was originally linked to the Resurrection of Christ. People at work couldn't believe that I had never been kite flying at Easter - not quite understanding that most of the time at Easter there is still snow on the ground in Canada or cold enough that people don't want to be outside!!
I like how this Guyanese columnist said it (http://ezinearticles.com/?Kite-Flying-and-Easter-Buns&id=179373)
"This Easter weekend in Guyana, my homeland, thousands of people, young and old will turn out to fly kites. It is a vivid kaleidescope of color and light, a warm, friendly family outing that give many children an important bonding experience with their parents. I have been unable to find the origins of this national event in Guyana. None of the neighboring countries in South America and the Caribbean have similar mass kite flying. It has been suggested that Guyanese kite flying is their way of celebrating the risen Christ. In multi-cultural Guyana Kite flyers are not only Christian but Muslim and Hindu. Our nation of six peoples have among them people who originally came from China and India--two countries which have long kite flying traditions..... My mind dredges up snap shots of a stark blue sky filled with many thousands of colorful dots swaying in the Atlantic breezes. There are other shots of long kite tails sky dancing, buzzing falling kites, the thrill of reeling out twine, hoisting kites, tangled twine and kite tails.... This Easter Guyanese around the world will bond if you mention kite flying."
1 comment:
is the perfume because you smell? :P! jokes!!!
Jealous of your massive hammock time. And warmness- currently cuddled under a blanket : (
Glad that you didn't go back to Barticia.... although it may have been better with a guide and actual activities happening...
Kite flying sounded like it was a lovely time.
Love.
Post a Comment