Saying goodbye

Good-bye, Guyana. Thanks for an amazing year, complete with ups and downs, upside downs and backwards... I think I have said all the words that there are to say at this point.

Until we meet again.


“Don't be dismayed at goodbyes, a farewell is necessary before you can meet again and meeting again, after moments or lifetimes, is certain for those who are friends.”

~Richard Bach~

A Perfect Saturday

Yesterday was my perfect Saturday in Guyana.

I slept in a little bit, enjoyed a few cartoons, showered and got dressed at my own pace. I look at the pile of GHIS related material that I could review again and do some more planning, but make the better decision to take the day for myself. I contemplated tidying my little apartment and decided that the dishes could wait for another day...

Around noon, I met Anu at the market (Stabroek, just to clarify). It's my favourite Saturday routine. If I were brave, I'd take the minibus, but as it is, I have the taxi driver drop me off at the front and I consider myself pretty brave to walk alone from the front to the very back of the market. Always a few comments from vendors wanting to know if I'm shopping and of course, men wanting me to know how beautiful I look! When I get to their stall, I love to see Anu and her dad's smiling faces pop up from behind the counter. I admire all her family's gold jewellery, dream of what I would buy if I were a millionaire and pick out my own beautiful gold jewellery set (an investment, but in my price range). It's taken me a few visits to decide what I wanted - everything is so beautifully hand crafted, shiny yellow gold and it's just so hard to pick your favourite!

Yesterday we mixed up the routine a bit and took a journey to Giftland to buy blank CDs - gotta love a little trip on a minibus, I'm always thankful that I survive. We walked back from Giftland to the market area. It's a bustle of activity in "downtown" central. A quick stop at the bank to pick up some cash (as quick as it can be to visit the only Scotiabank in the area in prime shopping time) then we head over to the Lotto place. I love going to Lotto. I'm not sure if Anu's dad's tickets ever really win (I think he's gotten a free ticket here or there since I've started coming), but I love checking the numbers, enjoying the air conditioning, dreaming of winning Guyanese millions and often do a little dance as we wait in the line - I think it amuses the security guard and I just can't help myself when the music is good.

Next stop is Hack's Halaal. The place where Anu introduced me to dhal puri with mango sour and you can find all the tasty treats like pine tarts, cakes, pastries, curries, and roti at a great price! Anu has a list of goodies that she usually picks up and by this time after walking in the sun, we both need a drink - Coke for Anu, water for me :)

I leave the market and usually spend the afternoon at home with a book or a movie on the Hallmark channel, but yesterday I was lucky enough to have a date with Samara, Wallis' daughter. While her son was at Scouts, I looked after Samara to give Wallis some time to work. We made some delicious cakes with our imagination, watered the plants for Ms P and took some time to be pirates and search for buried treasure in the yard. Wallis still needed some time after Lee was done with scouts so the three of us went to Pegasus and enjoyed the new playground!

When I finally got home, I was pretty exhausted from entertaining and keeping an eye on a 4 and 9 year old, but when the call came from my Canadian intern friends, I couldn't resist. I met them at White Castle fish shop for a drink (after an energizing shower and a change of clothes - didn't want to bring the sand from the playground with me!). We were planning our evening when I discovered they hadn't been to Latino’s yet! I can leave Guyana now knowing that they have been to all my favourite places. I introduced them to my favourite, rum and coconut water, and showed them the potential for dancing at Latino's (though strangely the dance floor was dead). I found the energy to somehow beat Cinderella's curfew, but found a space in the first taxi home. A great way to start a Sunday... :)

I appreciate the beauty of this country, enjoy taking new adventures, but there is something about a weekend routine with family and friends that makes you feel more at home.

Sorry for the late posting. I realized that I had written this post, saved it and apparently never posted it!

September Heat

September is hot. Really hot. I thought I was sick or something because of my difficulty to tolerate the heat. I used to walk to work every day, now most days I call a car. I sweat just by standing still. But I should known that the sun and my position close to the equator would explain it all! In Canada, when fall officially starts, summer is ending because the earth is rotating away from the sun – so my position near the equator is getting direct sun before the start of summer in the southern hemisphere. The days are getting shorter again and the sun is setting sooner…

Scientific Explanation:
"The Earth is at the autumnal equinox on or about September 21st. As the Earth revolves around the Sun, it gets positioned such that the Sun is directly over the equator. Basically, the Sun's energy is in balance between the northern and southern hemispheres. " (http://www.crh.noaa.gov/fsd/astro/season.php)

Bottomline: when you're essentially caught between the two hemispheres, there is no balance of the sun's energy...

It's HOT!!

The Cinema

I kid you not. I have been to the cinema in Georgetown. Potentially the only cinema in Guyana... And I survived.

I've actually been four times. I made the mistake of calling my parents the first time - being so excited to have an activity besides eating or drinking out on the town, and I might have mentioned that the cinema is on the "no-go" list for PeaceCorps volunteers, right up there with Stabroek market, but not as serious as Blue Iguana. Not the brightest idea, but I think they felt better after I told them about the excellent service of the guard who watches you from the moment you walk through the doors at 5:45pm through the movie and right until you get into the car at the end of the show!

The first film I went to see was Tyler Perry’s Meet the Browns. Neither Priya and I really knew what the film was about, but it was entertaining in that dramatic family comedy way with a little bit of a love story. The cost is $300 per show and though there is no popcorn, the lovely ticket lady does have delicious egg balls with mango sour for sale. The theatre has three levels and we watched the show from the balcony. The theatre is completely dark though it’s probably best that the lights aren’t on. The creaks and squeaks made me a little nervous and I made sure that I knew where all my exits were in case of fire or some other unforeseen circumstance. The only problem with the evening was the attack of the mosquitoes happening on my legs as I watched that I didn’t notice until the end – probably the most bites since I arrived last year and incredibly itchy!

The second film we saw was What Happens in Vegas with some new Canadian friends. I felt much more confident though a couple of big trucks drove by and I kind of felt the building shake which makes one a little tense, but I protected the first timers. Highlight of course was the blackout in an already scary theatre which wasn't as bad as it could have been because I had good company. And Skittles to calm me.

The third film was Hancock. Will Smith. Big screen. Need I say more? You'd brave the theatre too. I'd even seen it twice before...

And the final film that I survived was The Happening by M. Night Shyamalan. I don't know how Priya convinced me to go. I watch his movies (if I watch them at all!) in the day time, with the lights on, with either my mom or a male friend to hold me. Thankfully it wasn't as dark as some of his movies, but obviously had the same scary and thought-provoking features.

I don't know if I'll get to see another film before I leave, but without a doubt, I have enjoyed my Georgetown cinematic experiences.

Editorial Letter

I enjoyed reading this letter to the editor in the papers this morning - kind of a perfect day for me to read the paper as I tend to avoid them because of the violent stories and images used. It was written by the Honourable Minister of Health Dr. Leslie Ramsammy.

Can you please spare me a moment to be a proud Guyanese?

I have always been proud to be Guyanese. I have always had an abiding optimism in the future of my country. I believe in the goodness of my country and my sisters and brothers. Even in bad times, there are so many positive things that I see and so many of my sisters and brothers who make me proud. I am grateful that Guyana, with all its problems and with so many constraints, global and local, continues to demonstrate resiliency and maintain a promise of greatness. Over the last several weeks and over the past few years, I have had many reasons to feel proud. I feel compelled to bare my soul today so that my friends, my sisters and brothers see my pride in my country.

So what exactly compelled me to speak out at this time? My tolerance and patience were exhausted this past week. After a long period of trying to be very tolerant and remembering we live in a free and democratic country in which we ensure space for all kinds of views and opinions, my tolerance finally was exhausted.

There are commentators and “experts” who have all the answers. There are those who believe that as long as you serve in this Government you have no integrity and no contribution to make. Even these persons have not exhausted my patience! But I must confess that those who constantly and relentlessly seem to want to convince us that there is nothing good about Guyana, that Guyana is cursed, that other than themselves, there is no good person in Guyana, that Guyana is not going anywhere, have finally drove me over the edge and have moved me to respond. My short response first is enough is enough, stop it!

I would be dishonest if I were to do the same in an opposite way, that is, in the same forceful way to equally try to convince everyone that only good things happen in Guyana and that only good people live in Guyana, that there is no corruption anywhere in our country. There are many things and many people who should make us mad. Some things that are done in the name of the government should make us mad as hell! Corruption occurs in government and in the private sector, in NGOs. There are many bad things which happen in Guyana and which should make us bow our heads in shame. For sure we have our share of bad people.

There is no shame or hurt, or anything wrong, in persons dedicating their lives to expose these wrong doings and incompetent actions in our society. Indeed, for those who want to dedicate their lives in highlighting these wrong things, the things that bring shame to our country and our people, it is truly a noble choice. This should not exhaust our tolerance and, quite to the contrary, this should generate feelings of gratitude. But when this is done with an attitude and with a tone that nothing good happens in Guyana, it is unbalanced and unfair and it is ugly. It is dishonest and it exposes a wicked agenda.

I do not want to make an exhaustive list, and I do not want to go too far back. I want you to see just a few reasons why I am unapologetically a proud Guyanese. I am no “yes” person. I am not beholden to anyone.

When many here and around the Caribbean thought we were a risk to host world cup cricket, Guyana hosted a quality leg of the world cup series. I felt pride in the way Guyanese behaved, the way Guyanese came out and supported world cup cricket and in the way we were able to bring Guyana to a state of readiness. Many were surprised. I was not. Together with the majority of Guyanese, we showed everyone we were a capable people, bringing off a world cup cricket series with competence and with much zest. We flew the Golden Arrow Head in a way that said to the world “WE ARE GUYANESE, PROUD GUYANESE!”

Similarly, we have just concluded the hosting of CARIFESTA. Really, which one of us cannot be proud of the way Guyana responded in being the most hospitable of hosts? This was the largest ever CARIFESTA. This was a quality CARIFESTA. If CARIFESTA 1 set a standard for CARICOM countries to emulate, CARIFESTA 10 has re-calibrated the standards for which CARICOM countries must strive. There was celebration, there was joy. But there was also a robust dignity that oozed from Guyanese of all walks of life. I was glistening with pride.

Then there is Shivnarine Chanderpal. Here is an unassuming, quiet, humble Guyanese. But he is the #1 batsman in the world. He is now the cricketer of the year! Can you imagine that anyone of us would not be lighted up with pride! And lest I be accused of gender bias, we should not forget the pride with which Nicolete Fernandes, Aliana Pompey and Marianne Burnett represent Guyana and the pride they allow us to feel as Guyanese.

I remember how many of us stood with tears in our eyes and filed with patriotic pride when the International Tribunal on the Laws of the Seas ruled in Guyana’s favor in our sea borders dispute with Suriname earlier in the year. In this case, Guyanese could not help feeling pride for the boldness the government demonstrated in taking the dispute to the Tribunal. In particular, no one could have denied that the courage and leadership of President Bharrat Jagdeo were pivotal factors in this genuine Guyanese success story.

And I must relate the immense pride I felt when I participated in the Economic Partnership Agreement Consultation that took place last week at the International Convention Center. I saw Guyanese of all walks of life, Guyanese of different political parties, from the private sector and trades unions, from faith-based organizations, from NGOs, and Guyanese with a history of political and social differences, Guyanese with an acrimonious past, come together to raise their voices against the powerful European Union. And I was filled with pride to see our President being the Guyanese leader, a leader for all of our people.

President Bharrat Jagdeo demonstrated a keen understanding of the EPA, and explained with great clarity, with passion, with quiet confidence why the EPA is not a beneficial tool for Guyana, why the EPA is nothing more than a re-colonization instrument for the Europeans. There were great admiration for the young President, even by persons who have major differences with him and with whom he has had many unpleasant confrontations. It’s not the first time, but this was a moment when Guyanese felt genuine pride for our President. I know of no one in Guyana and in the Caribbean who could more clearly articulate the downside of the EPA than President Bharrat Jagdeo. My pride for Bharrat Jagdeo, our President, was not merely as a Minister in his Cabinet. It was as a simple Guyanese.

Every day I pass Guyanese craftsmen and women weaving their magic and bringing such enormous pride to our people. Our farmers are the best in the world. We produce the best sugar in the world. We might be a poor country, but more than 95 % of our children are protected against some of the world’s most devastating diseases. We have been able to reduce maternal and infant mortality by half in the last 15 years. It is ordinary nurses and simple health care providers in our towns and villages, in our remote communities, who are the heroes and heroines. I am eternally grateful and they make me so proud to be a Guyanese.

Lest I fall for the temptation of preparing a laundry list of pride factors, let me stop for the moment. I believe I have made my point for now. While there might be some bad things and while there may be some bad people in our country, there are many positive, uplifting things to make us proud to be Guyanese.

It’s simply reckless to deny there are things which make me stand with my head held high and beaming with pride. It’s wicked to portray a picture of total degradation, of hopelessness, of shame, of a country devoid of anything good. When we cannot bring ourselves, even for a moment to recognize the many things that dignify our nation, it must mean we have some mischievous, unholy agenda.

Please give me a break and allow me some time to savor my good fortune of being a Guyanese. I am intelligent enough to see wrong things and I am committed to want to change these wrongs. I see bad things, unacceptable things and I am appalled, even sometimes from within the government structure. These things disappoint me and make me reel with anger.

But I will rather die than not to acknowledge the good, the dignified, proud things that we accomplish, as individuals and as a Guyanese nation every day! So to the critics, can you spare me a moment to be a proud Guyanese?
Dr. LESLIE RAMSAMMY

http://www.guyanachronicle.com/letters.html#Anchor-26242

Santa Mission

I’ve always wanted to visit Santa Mission and as my time is coming to an end, I was feeling the pressure. I had decided that I was going to go yesterday and apparently the organizers of Amerindian Heritage Month had decided that Santa Mission was going to be their Amerindian Village for the celebrations and yesterday was going to be the big celebration!!

Luckily, I had a PeaceCorps friend on the inside who instructed me how to get there and with a little word of mouth, I ended up traveling with seven other people. The adventure started at my house at 7am where we took a car to the bus park in front of Stabroek and were violently hustled from one bus to another. Hustling is how mini bus conductors get passengers, but this was my first experience leading people on to a mini bus (and not being the one led) – and being physically hustled where one man “took me under his wing” and I felt a little uncomfortable. The man in our group took charge and we got on a mini bus that was ready to depart. The $300 bus ride dropped us off on the road outside the dock where we were greeted with large boats and tons of people getting in. The flat rate of $2000 round trip was standard for the boat and they stuffed us into a big boat which had no regard for boat safety rules (atleast by Canadian standards) where some of our group had to sit on the bottom or on gas cans.

We crossed Kamuni River (which I think is a tributary of the Demerara River) before entering the Pokerero Creek. By the end of the hour and a half boat ride, we had taken so many twists and turns that I didn’t know where we were. Santa Mission is located up the hill from a white sandy beach. The welcoming committee was getting ready to greet the president (though it was the prime minister who came) and we found our PeaceCorps friends. The village had an entire program prepared of local songs, dances and an acrostic poem by the children. The village tashao gave an address, as well as other tashaos representing their villages. The Minister of Amerindian Affairs and Prime Minister finished the first part of the day and every one was invited to watch the official opening of the new school. Food stalls had various types of pepperpot prepared and local drinks like piwari (from cassava) in addition to the usual beer, water and juice were for sale.

My favourite part of the day was relaxing under the shade of a large mango tree and not having any sounds of the city to worry about. I purchased some lovely baskets in the craft benab. The most adventure for the day was arguing with the boat drivers about whether we should have to pay for our “round” trip upfront or just pay for one way at a time – quite the experience! They weren’t going to let us off the boat. We made it safely there and back, minimal sunburn, lots of beautiful pictures and completely exhausted by the fresh air.

This Country

"At the point where the Caribbean meets South America on its North Atlantic seaboard lies an almost unknown, but incredibly wonderful land of unspoilt beauty, where the virgin rainforest leads to the Amazon Basin. Where the jungle is still unexplored, rivers uncharted and mountains yet to be climbed." (Unknown, www.guyana.org)

I love this country. Sometimes I have to stop and remind myself, but then I forget why I doubted. I love this country. From the mighty Kaieteur to the rolling green savannahs… From the refreshing ocean breeze to the red dirt roads… From the sweet pineapple to the fresh curry and roti… From the cherry juice to the rum and coconut water… I love this country.

But when people ask me what I like most about Guyana, I answer first the “wonderful people” followed of course by the fruit, food and natural beauty. It’s the answer they want to hear, but it’s also the truth.

When I ask myself on those horribly frustrating and stressful days “why the hell am I still here?” I need only to have a phone call from a friend, a kind word from a co-worker, a smile from a stranger at the clinic, a random story from a taxi driver, a chat with my favourite server at Oasis or Windies, a small child wave hello and want to hold my hand, to remember why I’m still here.

When on those rollercoaster days I feel like I am wasting my time and energy in a country where they seem content to do the minimum, I need only to open my eyes and see those individuals trying to run a clinic as best they can with limited resources and challenges they can’t control, watch a person manage too many program because they’re understaffed, talk to a taxi driver who works until the wee hours of the morning and wakes to wash his car before work the next day, to realize I’m not alone in wanting to do my best for this country and my life here.

When I feel lost and overwhelmed, I know just where to find a hug or calming atmosphere, I know who can make me feel better just with his presence, I know where to get a good laugh, where to find a shoulder to cry on and an ear to listen, and if all else fails, I know who serves the best chocolate cake or strongest rum drink.

I’ve found my home away from home, an Oasis, new friends, adopted family, and love… I didn’t expect it, I wasn’t looking for it, but it found me. I love this country.